and bringing it home to a kitchen where everything is ready for the special Ilish dish to be cooked and relished for lunch—whether it’s a simple Bhaja, a steamed or Bhapa, or an elaborate Paturi.

“I will be serving ilish oil sack pulao, muri ghanto (made with the fish head), ilish mach bhaja, and, of course, bhappa or sorshe ilish,” he goes on to say. “My cooking reflects influences ...