10 lbs of Kishu mandarins, flanked by yuzu. When I think—or, when I thought—of dried citrus, it’s of slices: orange, usually, in cross-section, with the skin. It’s crisp and quite bitter.

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Introduced to the West by China at the turn of the 19th century, the fruit was thus bestowed the fitting name of “mandarin”. But they are also known as “kid-glove” or “loose-skin ...